The TOQUES of the Town Image

The TOQUES of the Town

 

This story is primarily about sailing along the coast of the French Rivera by Zach and Chad, his son. It is a fictional travel log written in the first person. Each individual episode addresses a particular port-of-call along the Rivera's coast following the initial episode that presents the reason and the creation of the itinerary for the cruise. A portion of the cruise involves only Zach and Sara, his wife, who joins him in Villefranche-sur-Mer for 4 weeks.There are two major land excursions included in the itinerary for the benefit of supporting the Chad's future. 

NOTE: Most persons and the dog are ficticious, but the places are real.

 

PLANNING THE CRUISE

I had retired early at the age of 49 in New Orleans. I had started and sold 2 successful consulting firms by that time. It was for my 50th birthday celebration that Sara threw a party for all of our friends at Galatoire's in the French Quarter that set my course for next several decades. Typical for me, I made a flipchart presentation at the party where I laid out my desired activities for the next 30 years. (Having been trained in the 70s to use flipcharts at IBM following B-School. PowerPoint doesn't permit as much freedom to be dynamic in making my points.) My top priority was to bareboat charter a sailboat for sailing along the coast of the French Rivera. The list also included 1 month of skiing in Utah/Colorado each year, as well doing wine tasting at all of the wineries In Sonoma, CA. Sara and I had already completed Napa and Carneros.

I have been sailing since I was 20 beginning with a 17ft Barneget sloop common in the NE. After selling my first consultancy at the age of 35, I made the substantial upgrade to a 40ft Caliber sloop on Lake Pontchartrain, North of NOLA. 

I named the boat 'Sweet Sale' as play on words having sold my first consultancy. With retirement, it was now time to go to the next level of charting a sailboat in the Mediterranean bare of paid crew and supplies. Although Sweet Sale is a cruiser capable of a Transatlantic crossing, I decided that challenge would follow the success of the Med. cruise. However, for this cruise there was one major issue I had to address. I needed a crewmember. While Sara is a very capable first mate, her thriving law firm in NOLA could not do without her for the expected 4-month duration in the Med. I had considered several of my peers at the NOLA Yacht Club, but I was not comfortable with the availability of the other retired members that were at least 20 years older than me. Sara and I discussed various possible crewmembers, but we only came up with one possibility of my 22 y/o Chad. However, he had applied 2 months earlier to Stanford's MBA program. If accepted, then he would not be available for much of that period. It seemed that I would have look elsewhere

Chad and I have developed a strong relationship given the many things we do together including sailing, snow skiing, cooking, and even building furniture. However now, Chad is driven to obtain his MBA as soon as possible. He is very determined to mirror my career by beginning with an MBA. His drive is well understood by Sara and me. But, the timing of this cruise would mean a 1-year delay for him to enter Stanford. Sara and I discussed how to approach him. It was decided that Sara would introduce the cruise to Chad as a point of ongoing 'companionship' and a rare opportunity that would most likely not come again once he began his professional career. I saw this as a weak argument. "After all, I won't even be 60 when he is well on his way and able to take the time for such an excursion".  She responded, "Really? You want to wait until then with the possibility that he could be well into a family of his own? No!, the case needs to be made for NOW!" I relunctantly accepted her argument, and she planned to approach Chad the next Sunday over drinks before dinner at the NOLA yacht club.   However, on that Saturday the strategy changed. Chad received a letter from Stanford stating that he would have to demonstrate his ability in the working world for at least 1 year before being accepted. This was a point that Stanford used in qualifying the thousands of applicants having just received their undergraduate degree and with no meaningful work experience. Understandably, he was distraught when he read the temporary-rejection letter to us that evening. Being quite agitated he said;, "Really? Stanford responds with a Catch 22. I need to have an applicable work experience to be accepted in the MBA program. BUT! I need the MBA to get that experience." I paused and then responded, "I do understand your point. But that is Stanford's approach." I paused for a moment and then said, "Actually, Mom and I have an idea that we were going to speak with you about over drinks at the Club tomorrow. And now, given Stanford's position, we can make your and our plans work beautifully for all of us." "Sure Dad, you always have a plan.", he said somewhat sarcastically. Chad often used that tone when he was not happy with a situation. Sara quickly cut in, "Really Son, you are going to love our plan. I promise you.", as she followed with a hug and a kiss on the cheek. Softening his tone, "Ok, so what is this plan that is SO good for all 3?" I paused again as a point of emphasis, and then spoke, "We will first go to the club for drinks and dinner tomorrow and discuss it there. Given the letter, I want to put together some additional structure. You have to wait until then. You may not recognize it now Son, but I think your temporary rejection is going to work well for you both in the short and long term."  "Whatever Dad", as he turned and went up the stairs to his room. I looked at Sara, winked and said "This is working out perfectly Love." She nodded her agreement.

Chad's BACKGROUND

In addition to Chad pursuing his professional career, Sara and I had noted his passion for cooking. NOLA offered the perfect environment for that, but primarily limited to the Creole and Cajun recipes so richly presented there. He and I would often take on both new and traditional recipes with friends invited to join us in our spacious kitchen (gas only, no electric)  The absolute favorite recipe cookbook of the many that we possess is the "New Orleans Cookbook' by the Collins husband and wife team. I am proud to say that we own the coveted first edition.  

Unintentionally, cooking with us planted the seed for Chad's future. Beginning in his middle teens, he became increasingly involved with the preparation of dinner. Initially, Sara and I took turns with the entrees, with his responsibility being that of assembling/creating the salads. By the time he graduated from high school, he was sharing in the making of the entree as well. At first, he would be responsible for the set up of the ingredients for the entrees. Then as Sara and I performed the steps of making the entree, we  would instruct him with the intent of having him do the cooking in the future. During the summer preceding his entering Louisiana State University (LSU), he was the Chef at least 2 nights a week. Frequently I noticed that his entrees were often quite different in taste than my own. When I asked him about the differences in his preparation. he explained that he was practicing what he had seen on the Web in various cooking videos. Simply, he was testing the use of various spices and other ingredients to create unique favors.  Although not always successful, I took note of his serious interest in the culinary arts and made a mental note as to what I would provide him at some time in the near future. Specifically, the Med. cruise I was planning provided an ideal opportunity for professional training in a particular village on the French Rivera. I believed that he needed to be on his own once he knew the basics, which he now had. I well understood that parental point from my father who dealt with me in the same way.  My father was willing to let me experience my own failures, but in a safe fashion.  

I particularly recognized Chad's competitive spirit when skiing together. Since he was 16, it had always been a challenge between the two of us on the most difficult ♦♦ slopes. It was not until he was 19 with Vöiki Mantra, All Mountain skis and Technica Cochise boots that he was superior in cutting through the glades. I had graciously accepted Son's advancement, and no longer were there bets as to who would pay for drinks during après ski; I always bought the dinners, of course. Contrarily, it was not the same when sailing Sweet Sale. That was always a team effort with the two of us alternating as to who took the helm and who handled the sheets (the lines) for the sails. In both skiing and sailing, each of us had developed full respect for the other's skills.

THE PLAN, almost

The Sunday dinner at the club was nearly a weekly tradition for them for the last 15 years since the purchase of Sweet Sale. Each Sunday the club offered its Prime Rib special that was generous in its portions and a great occasion for meeting with the other club members. The Club's special included both Yorkshire pudding as well as Gratin Dauphinois. The deserts varied each Sunday, but were usually a mixture of Cajun dishes given the series of Sous Chefs over the years. During the months of April through June, soft shell crab would be alternately substituted for the prime rib as the special. In these cases the Gratin Dauphinois was replaced with a dish including the 'trinity' of vegetable (green bell pepper, onion, and celery) that are diced and cook in fat similar to mirepoix used in traditional French cuisine.

At 6, the 3 of us arrived at the Club and sat at our normal table next to the bar overlooking the docks. The server approached, "The usual Sir?" I responded, "Actually we will start with a bottle of Cristal Champagne. We are celebrating tonight. Also, bring an extra flute." "Yes Sir!" responded the waiter with a broad smile. He knew that I always tipped handsomely and that $250 bottle of Champagne alone would result in at least $40 in his pocket. Chad smiled and started with, "Well, this must be a really good plan you two have." I was quick to respond, "It is Son. But first we will toast, and then I will provide the details. The plan takes full advantage of your 1 year delay in entering Stanford by building an ever greater CV for their consideration of your enrollment at that time."

The server returned shortly with the Crystal, 4 lead-crystal flutes etched with the club's insigne, and a bowl of mixed nuts. He removed the cork's retaining wire the required 5 twists and gently edged the cork out with only the slightest pop. He then carefully filled 3 of the flutes that he held tilted to not 'startle' the Champagne. While the Crystal was being served, I motioned to pour some Crystal in the 4th flute. "Young man, please join us in this toast with this most amazing Champagne." "Yes Sir!" With all served, I started: "Cheers and best wishes to our loved and loving Son. May his future match his kind and very talented mind." With cheers and clicking of flutes around, the server finished his half-flute and departed knowing not to return until motioned to by me..

Chad spoke first, "Thanks Dad. I wish not to rush you .... BUT, I do. What is the plan?" I took another sip of the Champagne and sat back in my chair. "Son, do you recall my top priority desire that I presented during my 50th birthday party?" "Yes, of course. You desire to sail the coast of the French Rivera." "Correct!, However, I need a sailing mate since Mom cannot afford to be away from her law practice for 4 months. So now, with your one year delay before you can apply again to Stanford's MBA program, you are the best choice to join me on this amazing cruise." I paused and began again hearing no comment from Chad. "I have developed the itinerary for the 4 months which I think you will greatly appreciate and desire. The itinerary provides for some extraordinary experiences that can provide you with an excellent CV to be presented to Stanford in a year for admission." "OK Dad. I am all ears." "To start with, the Ports of Call will be Monaco first, followed by Cap-d'Ail, Villefranche-sur-Mer, Antibes, Cannes, St. Tropez, Marseille, Cap d'Agde. Chad then interrupted him, "But Dad, taking a cruise along the Rivera for 4 months would not be viewed very well on its own, I believe. I am struggling with what I can do professionally within a year that will mark be as good candidate yet alone only 8 months." "I looked sternly at him and restarted. "Let me finish, and then you can state your points, that is if you will have any after you hear what I have to say."

SELLING THE PLAN

"Mom and I understand your desire to start your own company once you have an MBA. Right?' He nodded. "We also know your passion for the culinary arts. And, you have often mentioned that there is not an American equivalent to Michelin Star ratings across the U.S. Such restaurants only exist in LA, Chicago, San Francisco, and NYC. As you know, even NOLA does not have access to that rating system due to the lack of Michelin personnel to do the evaluations here." I paused for a moment, as I often do to maintain his attention. "So what does the combination of the 3 points of

MBA, lack of an American rating system equivalent to Michelin Star, and your culinary passion suggest to you Son?" I waited for him to take all of that into consideration. Suddenly, he raised his flute in the air. " WOW!, what a great idea Dad. Give me a moment while I think of a name for this venture." Sara quickly spoke up, "I think that 'TOQUE' ('Chef's hat') suggests both charm and excellent cuisine." Son smiled and said "Accepted Mom. Toque it will be."

NOTE: The Michelin Guide was first introduced in 1900 to encourage the purchases of automobiles, and hence tires. In 1926, a single Star rating was introduced. In 1936, the ratings were increased to include zero, 1,2, and 3 stars.

Chad started.  "Really super idea Dad. So again, what does the 4-month cruise have to do with a Toque rating system?"  I smiled and sat up in my chair and finished the bottle by refilling the 3 flutes. "This is the brilliant part that Mom and I have agreed to doing. ... that is, subject to your agreement. There are 2 educational opportunities that we will pay for during the cruise that will serve you well in pursuing a Toque rating system, and then your application to Stanford." He sat up in his chair taking a long sip of the Champagne. I continued, "The first is the French language school in Villefrance-sur-Mer, Institut de Français.This is a 4-week total-immersion program as to the language and French cuisine. Our itinerary is aligned with being in that village for you to go directly into the program." "WOW! Dad, but"  I stopped him with another stern look,"Permit me to proceed, and I will come back to your obvious question in a moment. The second program is a 4-week immersion, again, into the art of French cooking. That is Gastronomicom in Cap d'Agde that is at the end of our sailing. You and I will be taking that program together." "I mean WOW! Dad. Of course I want to do that. It will be fantastic part of my CV that sets up my opportunity to put together the Toque rating system." I continued. "Now, to answer your unspoken question, I first have something for your Mom." He then handed an envelope to Sara. "Darling, open the envelope please." She looked puzzled as she used her index finger to open the envelope. When she pulled out the contents, she was even more confused. It was a first class, round trip ticket on Delta to go to Villefrance-sur-Mer." She noted the dates of the travel and then stated, "But I can't do this trip. I have my calendar completely booked for that period with very interesting new clients that I would never expected to engage the firm." Broadly smiling, I said. "No you don't Love. Those appointments you have seen are not real. Ellen, your personal secretary, and I falsely scheduled your calendar to keep you available to come to Villefrance-sur-Mer and sail with me while Son is in the school there" Like Son, she responded "WOW!, you Devil you" "So Son, you now know the answer to your unspoken question as to what I will be doing during your 4 week experience in Villefrance sur Mer." All finished their Champagne with a click of the flutes.

MONACO

I decided that Chad and I would take the earlier Delta flight-combo, via JFK, that left New Orleans at 11:14 AM and arrived the next day in Nice at 8:15 A.M. The alternative flight-combo via Atlanta arrived later at Noon. I had purchased First Class tickets, which provided seats that could be transitioned to flat beds on the flight across the Atlantic. With both dinner and breakfast service, we were well rested and fed during the 8 hour flight. I reserved window seats on the right side to view the crossing of France and especially the landing in Nice with its spectacular coastline. Also, I knew that on the odd-number flight from JFK, that the best seats were towards the front of First Class thereby providing the first choices of the various meals offered. (On the returned flight of NCE to JFK, which was a even-number flight, I chose seats at the rear of First Class in order to have the first choices of meals.). Since this was Chad's first international flight, I warned him of not consuming too much of the endless pour of wine and Champagne that was available. I also suggested that he tell the Flight Attendant not to wake him for breakfast if he was asleep. We would eat our lunch in Monaco. 
 
Once in the Nice airport, I made arrangements to have most of the substantial luggage to be delivered to the boat-charter service in Monaco. We then caught a SNCF train that was another 50 minutes in arriving in Monaco. I chose the train versus the metro/ bus combo that would take an extra hour at least, although very scenic along the coast. However, the train route along the coast did provide glances of two of the ports we will be visiting on the boat: Villefranche-sur-Mer and Cap-d'Ail. The extra time by taking the JFK connection permitted us some exploration in Monaco before boarding the boat. The next sailing leg would be Cap-d'Ail arriving in the early afternoon, that is depending upon the weather. With his numerous trips to Cote Azure in the summer, he had rarely experienced weather in which he could not sail safely.
 
Arriving at the Monaco station, we made the long walk underground to the outside. Upon exiting the station's entrance, the grand Port Hercules of Monaco presented itself with its wealth of powered and sailing yachts. However, our boat was not in this harbor but rather in PorFontvieille just around the mountain to the West. This smaller, but very charming, port was for the charter services and those individuals waiting for their opportunity to dock in the prestigious Port Hercules at a rate no less than €1,500 per day. 
 
Before proceeding to the boat, I decided to have lunch first since neither of us had the breakfast service on the Delta flight. I noted that Café de Paris, Monte Carlo had a formidable sitting area adjacent to the marina and we took a table there. As would be common for much of the trip, I ordered a pichet rosé avec beaucoup glacons as well as a carafe de eau. Knowing a few French words, Chad said, "Really Dad? They serve rosé here with ice cubes. How un-French is that?" "Not at all Son. Along the Mediterranean, rosé is most often served with ice cubes on the side given the heat. I did asked for 'much' ice cubesMy French is a bit limited also, but the waiter understood." With a smile I continued, "You now have had your first true French culinary lesson." The waiter returned with the 'pichet' (i liter) of rosé, carafe of water, four glasses, and a bowl of ice with a spoon. He handed each of us a menu and stated he would return at my request via a hand signal. I continued, "After Lunch, I will contact the charter service and they will provide a water shuttle to our boat in the other harbor. As to lunch, I really enjoy just baguette stuffed with brie and the pâté de maison. I have never enjoyed a large déjeuner in France." Chad then said, "Actually Dad, I am a bit starved. Soooooooo, having looked at the menu I will have the Omelette de la mère Poulard and a petite nicoise salad." "Son, you will soon experience your next two additional French culinary arts, I refer first to a classic French omelet and second the nicoise salad that it is so called due to its origin in Nice. While Chad filled the glasses 2/3 full before the addition of several ice cubes each, I pulled out the map of Port Fontvieille noting the position of the Chartering Service's office. I then called the Service stating that they were in Monaco and would call them after lunch. The individual asked where we were at that point. When I responded, the individual said they would send a shuttle boat to pick us up at 4:30. He also mentioned that their luggage had been delivered and was on the boat, as well as some basic supplies that I had requested a week ago. The plan was to do most of the initial shopping in Cap-d'Ail given the significantly lower costs.
 
We were finished with lunch and wine by 3 PM. With more than an hour until being picked up, I ordered 2 tango panachés, a traditional Monaco drink made from equal parts of grenadine syrup, lemon soda, and beer. With the drinks delivered, I turned to Chad, "Cheers to us for this extraordinary trip my Son." "Cheers Dad" as we clicked our glasses. While waiting for the shuttle, I went into some brief discussion regarding each of the ports we would be visiting. Chad then asked several questions about the two excursions he was to experience. At 4:30 sharp, the outboard from the Charter service arrived. I paid la addition. Noting that the menu's prices were service compris, I left a €5 tip nonetheless as was my practice when in France
 
The shuttle was a fast 25ft, open cockpit craft with (2) 200Hp outboards. It was less than 15 minutes when we left Port Hercules, rounded the mountain, and then entered Port Fontvieille. The entrance to the port was spectacular. What this port lacked in size, it made up in its charm and beauty. Upon arrival at the dock for the Charter Service, I immediately spotted our boat for the next 4 months. Before buying the Caliber in the U.S., I had chartered a 40ft Hunter several times and had specifically chosen this U.S.-built vessel over the inferior, French-built, 40ft Beneteau offered by the Charter Service. With the necessary papers signed, we were on-board 'La Vie'. in 5 minutes. Upon entering the below deck cabin, there was a bottle of Veuve Clicqout Champagne and 2 flutes.  I was surprised and said to Chad, "How did they know my favorite Champagne?" The rest of that evening was spent stowing our gear on-board and enjoying the Champagne on the open deck in the back. Even though we were well rested given Delta's flat beds across the Atlantic, I knew that morning would come 7 hours earlier than for which our internal clocks were geared. At 10 PM, we headed for our respective births. I took the V-berth at the bow, and Chad settled in the aft-birth under the helm.
We both awakened at 8. Once Chad was dressed, I asked him to go to a patisserie nearby to find croissants and croque monseuirs, if possible. Meanwhile, I took an inventory of the critical rigging, including the sheets for the main and jib.  There was no spinnaker or spinnaker pole in the fo'c'sle, which was disappointing to me. Also, the boom vang was not rigged. I mumbled outloud, "Clearly, these guys don't appreciate 'running before the wind".  However, there was enough line and pulleys to rig my own vang. Chad returned with 2 croque-monsieurs and 2 café cremes. 
 
After enjoying our petite déjeuner on the aft deck, we made a final check of the required items for their sailing, With the exceptions noted by me earlier, we were set to depart the dock. Suddenly, I heard the individual that we met the previous night yelling to us from the charter office. "S'il vous plaît, attendez messieurs" I noticed he had a gorgeous English-Cream Golden Retriever by his side as they ran towards our boat. The dog was not on a leash and arrived at the boat first. He immediately jumped from the dock to the aft deck and sat behind the steering wheel on the padded bench. We were puzzled by what was happening. When the individual arrived, he caught his breath and stated, "Messieurs, this dog, 'Jazz' was the property of the previous owner of this boat who was a musician from New Orleans in the U.S. Monsieur died 3 weeks ago, and we purchased this boat from his daughter in the U.S. Jazz came with the boat, and we have been caring for him since then. As you can see, Jazz desires to be on the boat. Would you messieurs consider taking him onboard for your trip and leaving him in Cap d'agde when you drop off the boat in 4 months?" He paused, "Our personnel in Cap d'agde understand the situation, and they are willing to accept the dog." I looked at Chad, "What do you think?" Jazz was now licking Chad's left arm. He replied. "Uhhhhh, I'm game Dad." I then turned to the individual, "Bring us whatever dog food you have, and we will take Jazz on." "Merci beaucoup, I will be back shortly with 2 bags of dog food and 2 dishes to serve him his food and water. Also, Jazz loves the water, and he is able to get back onto the boat with the platform at the stern. He does understand basic commends in English and French."
 
Once we received the dog food and dishes, I started the engine as Chad released the lines from the dock. Within minutes, we were out of the dock and motoring out of the port. Jazz went to the foredeck to enjoy the wind. Approaching the open water, I killed the engine, and Chad then first raised the main, and then the jib. Both sails quickly filled as Dad turned the vessel towards the wind for a starboard tact and eliminating any luffing. We were now underway on our voyage. From my experience with Hunters in the past, I could feel the vessel responding handsomely.  Entering the Med., I turned to Chad and said, "La Vie is yar!" Son knew the Katherine Hepburn reference. We both raised our arms into the air in celebration of this forthcoming 4-month adventure. Jazz barked twice from the bow.
 
Cap-d'Ail

For the sailing leg to the next port-of-call, Cap d'Ail, it would take less than 2 hours. However, once in open water, I decided to put La Vie through some simple maneuvers to refresh both of our's agility in dealing with the sheets in tacking as well as jibing. This was not Lake Pontchartrain, and during the trip we would most likely be confronted with conditions more extreme than back in NOLA. I also wanted to observe Jazz's dealing with all of our activity in handling the sails. Fortunately, it would be quickly demonstrated that Jazz was unaffected by the activity and simply laid at the bow facing and enjoying the wind. Based upon the wagging of his tail, Jazz particularly enjoyed the occasional spray from a wave as La Vie plowed through it.

Using the boat's VHF radio, I called the Port Master in Cap d'Ail to inform him of our arrival in several hours and to get info as to where the boat should dock. We could anchor in the harbor, but I decided that there were too many supplies to obtain to deal with a shuttle. Additionally,I didn't yet know of Jazz's routine on the boat weather anchored in the harbor or being in a slip. We would soon come to understand that Jazz could take care of his needs in either case; Jazz was 'boat broken'. 

As we approached the entrance to the port, Chad lowered and secured the sails, and I started the engine to motor in. The marina was modest in size, and I was able to find our designated slip easily. Arguably, this French city was best known for its beach, Plage Mala, with its unique beauty and obscurity. Therefore, I had decided to spend an additional day in this port to take advantage of this treasure. But first, we would spend the rest of this day in obtaining the necessary supplies for a significant portion of the trip. I decided to only provide supplies for breakfast and cocktails in the evening on the boat. Lunch and Dinner would be enjoyed on shore. Of course, I justified this decision as part of the exposure for Chad in pursuing his French culinary skills.

For dinner that evening, I made a reservation at Primo Amore by Pappagallo, which had a perfect 5.0 score as to all 4 measurements based on 236 reviews: food, service, value, and atmosphere. This score was additionally impressive in that it was for Italian cuisine in a French city. In his extensive domestic and international travels, I had never seen a perfect score.

Indeed, the food and service were excellent. But what really caught my attention was the appetizer, focaccia perdue caramel poisson-beurre. This was stalfocaccia (perdue = lost) in which butterfish had been incorporated. It was then dipped in an egg mixture and browned in butter in a sauce pan (think an extraordinary French Toast), This was another cuisine tip for Chad.

The following morning, I was awakened at 7 by a soft, wet touch on my left cheek.  Jazz had come down to the V-berth and sat patiently on the bedding after licking my face. With a slight moan, I sat up and embraced him, "Really Jazz?" As I stood up, Jazz went back into the galley and sat by his empty bowls,  I put on my bathing suit and then filled one bowl with water and the other with 1 cup of dry dog food. As Jazz 'inhaled' the food, I went up on deck for a quick swim in the marina.  Diving from the transom, I was soon followed by Jazz jumping in after me. Upon coming back onboard after several minutes, Jazz continued to swim around near the stern and occasionally diving down for a moment, as if pursuing fish, and then resurfacing. This dog was a natural for being around and in the water. As I dressed, Jazz was soon by my side below deck. I then proceeded to grill some sage sausages, including one for Jazz, which had been purchased the day before. The scent and the sizzling of the sausages cooking awakened Chad. Along with the 2 croque monsieurs that we had also purchased on shore, we enjoyed their first meal onboard.  Jazz was served his sausage in his bowl so as to not encourage begging during meals. Within an hour, we had finished stowing the supplies from the day before and were prepared to leave the marina.

Given the short distance to Plage Mala, I decided to motor there and anchor in its prestigious cove over night. As we turned from the sea towards the cove,  two restaurants with their private beachfronts came into sight. Most impressive was the perfectly clear water that varied from light bluish-green near shore to dark blue further out due to the vegetation and depth of the water. Sara and I had been to the restaurant Edenwith its red motif, on our honeymoon. Have just started my Consultancy at that point, meant that money was a bit tight and Eden was significantly less expensive than the other restaurant, La Reserves, with the white motif. This time, Chad and I would enjoy both: Eden for lunch and La Reserves for dinner thereby requiring anchoring in the cove overnight.

Unlike when sailing in Lake Pontchartrain, I decided to use tandem anchoring for a more secure mooring. This meant that there was an anchor placed at both the bow and the stern of La Vie. Once the boat was secured as to sails and the cabin, Chad called for the boat-taxi to take us to shore. Jazz stayed on the deck since dogs are not permitted in the swimming areas of this relatively short beach.

Once on shore, we first viewed the menu of each restaurant with Chad expressing surprise at the high prices for each. I responded:  "Location, location, location." I also noted that the only way to this location was walking 187 steps down and then back up to the street ... or ... walking the seashore for a mile ... or ... taking a boat to the cove from Cap d'Ail.

I first made the lunch reservations at Eden, and then we went to La Reserves to rent two padded sun loungers for the day The intent was to spend the day there with the exception for lunch. Several times in the morning, Chad would swim the 200 yds to La Vie to be with Jazz. The two would then swim around the boat at first and then onto a cave-like entrance. There seemed to be no limit to Jazz's energy. When the sun was directly overhead, Chad led Jazz back to the boat for Jazz to reboard. Chad then swam to shore to have lunch. As he came onto the beach, he could not help but notice the young lady bathing on the beach in front of La Reserve. As he passed her she looked up, and he fumbled a 'Bonjour'. She smiled, and he continued up the beach to Eden. He found me already seated there with a 1/2 pichet of rosé. "Chad, I      would say with your significant swimming activity this morning that you may want to consider several of the protein-based servings." "Yes, I agree. Do you have any recommendations for lunch?" "Yes, I suggest the Tagliata de Boeuf. It looks excellent, and I will be ordering that." "Make that 2." As Chad was pouring his rosé and adding several glacons, he noted the same young lady walking up from the beach. She was topless in her monokini, and was just wrapping her chest with a chiffon shawl as she approached the table level. I clearly noticed Son's distraction. Smiling I said, "Yes Chad, the beaches on the Rivera are with a topless option. You will see some of that as we progress along the coast. However, women going topless are on the decrease it seems. Actually, our final destination of Cap d'Agde is said to have the largest number of nudist beaches in the world."

The young lady took the table next to us and was soon joined by another young women equally attractive. Chad was now really distracted. The two Mademoiselles were classic French with their tanned, slender bodies, designer hair, and charming movements. After several minutes, the first mademoiselle turned and said to him, "S'il vous plaît, Monsieur, avez-vous un briquet ?" He then responded, "Parles-tu Anglais?" She quickly responded "Oui ...ahhh Yes. I was asking if you had a lighter." Hesitantly, Son responded. "No, I am 'trés' sorry Madame." She smiled at his cute attempt to include some French. "Merci beaucoup Monsieur". As she was turning back towards her friend, she suddenly glanced back, "Perhaps we will meet again, Monsieur". She turned back to sit at her table. Son's blushing was evident to Dad. 

Smiling, I commented, "Well Chad, you seem to be adapting well to the 'culture' here." He smartly replied, "I guess I'll start carrying a lighter here in France." We both laughed. When the waiter arrived, I ordered two servings of Tagliata de Boeuf. While waiting for the food, we discussed the sailing tomorrow to Villefrance sur Mer. I knew the village in that it had been a major part of my honeymoon. I explained that we would sail out into the sea far enough to make a single tack around Cap Ferret, and then directly into the port. As a side point, I noted that Sir Elton John own a significant portion of that peninsula. Also that Tina Turner resided in a villa overlooking the harbor. I stupidly joked that neither artist had extended a dinner invitation to us. The food arrived, and it was spectacular in its presentation. The pieces of baquette were an excellent addition. They were provided with a shallow bowl of olive oil and grated Parmesan cheese. Butter was not offered as is typical in French dining.

Finished with the food and wine, I paid la addition. We then proceeded to return to their sun lounges at La Reserve. Upon standing from the table, Chad felt emboldened to say "Enchantée Madams" to the two Mademoiselles. His first encounter smiled with a wink and said "Au revoir Monsieur. But first, may I borrow your cell phone for a moment?" He was surprised, but handed her his cell phone. She proceeded to enter some numbers, and then her cell phone on the table rang. It then stopped ringing as she closed the call on his phone and handed it back to him. "Monsieur, you now have my number, and I yours." She looked directly into his eyes and said, "We are now able to contact each other if so desired." Knowing that he did not speak French, she continued, "Tu es très beau et j'aimerais te connaître davantage." Son simply responded with "Oui" without a clue what she had said. I had some understanding and smiled at the Mademoiselles. "Chad, I will tell you later what she said."  He said "Au revoir, Mademoiselles." as they headed for La Reserve 

 Once back to their sun loungers at La Reserve, I said, "Chad, she said something about you being beautiful and that she wishes to see you again. So young man, do with that what you will. You DO HAVE 4 weeks at Institute de Francaise starting in 2 days that will require your dedication to maximize its value for you entering Stanford." He paused. "I am indeed enchanted by this brief encounter with a French beauty, but my mind is on the future. But, I must say that she was so charming and physically attractive that it is difficult not to pursue." "In France you will be presented with so many such women. I can assure you." With that, Dad ordered a 1/2 pichet of rosé. The rest of the afternoon was spent sun bathing with Chad again swimming out twice to be with Jazz for a swim together. On the second swim, before returning to shore, he provided Jazz with fresh water and a cup of dog food since we would not be back until 8 at the earliest.

At 5 I asked the constant attendant to make a reservation for 2 in the dining area at 5:30. We then took a short swim just off shore to cool off. And then we went to the fresh water shower to rid themselves of the salt water. Subsequently, we changed into shorts and light shirts to have dinner. Once seated with menus, I noted the specialty in which I was most interested. This was an entree Sara and I once had at a restaurant on the Bosphorus Strait in Istanbul, but never in France: the iconic Mediterranean Salt Crusted Sea Bass. This entree for two is prepared by baking an entire sea bass totally encapsulated in salt. The waiter then does the preparation of separating the meat from bones. Again, a cuisine lesson for Chad.

Taking the complimentary shuttle back to La Vie at 8,  Chad remained on the aft deck as I went below to get a bottle of Port.  We then spent the next hour or so speculating about some future events during this trip while observing the extraordinary brilliant sunset. The anchoring was such that the stern of the boat faced the West with a view of the coast and hills ahead of us for our next day of sailing. With the mooring lights turned on, we went below decks at 10 to sleep with Jazz remaining on the aft deck, as he would throughout the voyage.

In the morning, Jazz again awakened me at 7 with his version of la Biss of only one cheek. Chad was likewise wakened by Jazz. Before cooking a light breakfast, all 3 were soon in the water enjoying its refreshing coolness. Following with a quick fresh water shower on board, Chad prepared a breakfast of sausages and French-style scrambled eggs. Finished with this petite-déjeuner, it only took 30 minutes to be underway on the next leg to Villefrance sur Mer. 

For all ports-of-call in this story, save Villefranche sur Mer, there is only one episode each. However, for this next port, the 4 week duration as well as two separate agendas of wife/me and my son warrants multiple parts.

VILLEFRANCHE-SUR-MER: Part 1
For departing from Plague Mala, both the main and jib were set. On a port tack, we were far enough into open water in several minutes to permit us to look North beyond the coastal hills of Côte d'Azur. Chad was alarmed by the massive dark clouds inland and the possible threat to their sailing. He had never really been tested as to rough seas and damning weather. However, I have spent enough time along this coast on my honeymoon and 3 subsequent trips to understand the peculiarities of this weather pattern. In my experience I have rarely seen threatening weather inland to actually reach the coast, yet alone over the sea. I assured Chad that with the current wind, they would be entering the harbor of Villefranche-sur-Mer within an hour. The route required sailing out far enough into the sea to take a starboard tack to pass the peninsula of Cap Ferret, and then 'run before the wind' to enter the harbor. Once in, it was only 15 minutes to drop the sails and motor to their slip for the next 4 weeks. I had already made arrangements for one of the few slips in front of Hôtel Welcome to dock La Vie for that time. With Chad attending the Institute de Francaise for that period, and Sara arriving during his schooling, the slip would be most convenient. If we had moored in the harbor, then  we would be depended upon the irregularity of a water taxi that had limited hours.

Once La Vie was secured, both we were ready for déjeuner. I knew of a deli along the beachfront that served Pan Bagnat, a local specialty. This sandwich is to Nice and this village what the muffuletta is to the French Quarter in NOLA. With Jazz following us, we took the cobblestone promenade towards the beach. Jazz walked along the edge constantly looking into the shallow, crystal clear water. Suddenly he jumped and down into the water emerging shortly thereafter with a sizable fish in his mouth. Jazz then used the large rocks along the edge to come back onto the promenade. He then sat in front of me and dropped the fish at my feet. The fish did not appear to be damaged. (This is possible given that Golden Retrievers have 'gentle mouths' with enough spacing between their front and back teeth to carry game without harm.) Ww were in in total awe of this dog. Without Jazz watching, I threw the fish back into the water. With our sandwiches purchased, as well a pink 'franske' hot dog (w/o bun) for Jazz, we returned to La Vie to enjoy our lunch and Jazz his snack. 

We spent the afternoon visiting the various shop along the primary alleys of the village. There were some basic items Chad required for his 4-week stay at the Institute. Jazz was with us, but he would sit outside a shop while we were inside. While walking through the village, we came across several American Golden Retrievers with their owners. These encounters only required a quick sniff by the dogs of the other's hindquarters, and then back to their owners. It seemed to me that even the dogs in the village, like their owners, are quite la te da. By 5, Chad had the supplies he needed, and we headed to Les Palmiers at the square for a full pichet of rosé that is always served with a bowl of glacons.

Once seated at a table on the edge of the square, I ordered the rosé and a carafe d'eau. "Chad, tomorrow with Mom arriving, the 3 of us will eat dinner at my favorite restaurant in this village. La Belle Étoile is on an alley further up the hill which we have not yet visited. The Owner/Chef is Manuel. He is one from whom you can learn a great deal about French cuisine as well as business practices. But, I will save further comments on those points until we are there. I have an idea for your benefit that I will pursue at that time."  "What are you up to now Dad?" "You'll see." 

This was the perfect opportunity to discuss each' other's perspective of how a restaurant should be evaluated on a score of 1-4 toques. I started with my perspective having traveled extensively both domestically and internationally. "I have often considered 3 criteria in addition to the obvious four of atmosphere, price, quality, and service to evaluate a restaurant." I paused when the rosé was delivered. "First, I consider the price-point of the offered wines based upon their quality and uniqueness. Next, I evaluate the quality of the bread that is served. The bread is a subtle indication of the restaurant's quality, granted, but the finer restaurants take the extra step to serve excellent pain. Lastly, if served, I evaluate the quality of the sauces."  I paused gain while we each had more rosé, and then I continued. "These 3 criteria are very applicable in NOLA where well-priced wine, with excellent bread dipped in extraordinary sauces can the difference between a good meal and a great meal." Chad laughed, "Really?" "Yes!, really Chad. As you are familiar with our meals at home or at a restaurant in NOLA, we share our sauces with all that wish to dip their bread." Chad repeated "Really?" I emphasized, "Yes! You well know that a meal with family and friends is a treasured act of sharing. I have found this practice to be unique to NOLA's culture. So!,  As you create your list of the criteria for your 'Torque' evaluation, I suggest you keep this point of sharing food in mind.  This concept can differentiate you from the Michelin Star evaluation that is meant only for haute cuisine. I believe it could be critical attribute in achieving your success." Chad filled his wine glass and sat back in his chair. "Dad, I think you have made a critical point for me to consider to make Toques standout, especially in the South." "Chad, it is my belief that this will also catch on across the U.S." Having finished the rosé and la addition paid, we headed back to the La Vie.  Jazz anticipating their destination, ran ahead, jumped in the water and reappeared on the stern of the boat that faced the harbor.

Once back on La Vie, I checked the status of Sara's flight. With the 7-hours time difference, her first flight of DFW to JFK would be in the process of boarding. In that Delta had been a client of my second consultancy, I had access to Delta 'employees-only' flight status portal. Hence, I could see that she was already seated in 4a. I turned to Chad as we were dressing to go out for dinner "Mom is on her way.  She should arrive in Nice tomorrow about Noon and then here by 2." "Great! She is going to love La Vie." "I also think she is going to absolutely love Jazz." "Speaking of 'Jazz', so to speak, tonight we are going to a very charming jazz club at the marina. It is called La Trinquette, which is French for 'staysail'" Hearing his name, Jazz went to his dishes and sat waiting to be fed. 

With Jazz fed, we all left La Vie and walked along the sea wall that bordered the fort on the edge of the village. Within 10 minutes. we were at the entrance to the Darse Marina and in front of La Trinquette, Having been there several times before, I had reserved one of the 2 tables that was outside that permitted Jazz to be with us. The main room of the restaurant was quite tight, especially with the band set up, and Jazz would have been interference to the servers. The €15 fare of the club's menu was homestyle, not pretentious, but excellent for that venue. The music that night was a 'casual innovative' jazz unlike our more complex collective forms of jazz in NOLA. But it was perfect with the simple fare. Unlike our dining at the New Orleans Yacht club, I ordered a French beer during the evening in lieu of wine. Son took note of this evening in line with his thoughts of the sharing of food that he and I had discussed that afternoon. At 10:30 la addition was paid, and we walked back to La Vie by means of the sea wall again.  The lights from the opposite shore of Cap Ferret reflecting on the water provided a most serene setting for the short walk.

Once back to the slip of La Vie, I suggested that we first have a nightcap of green Chartreuse at the wine bar of Hotel Welcome, as Jazz explored the promenade along the water.   

It was a late night for of us. As ususal, Jazz stayed on the aft deck to sleep as we went below to our berths.

NOTE: Villefranche sur Mer is one of my favorite designations in the world. If you wish to know more about this villeage, you can read my 2 postings in the TRAVEL category on this blog: Villefranche sur Mer: Within and Villefranche sur Mer: Without.

 

VILLEFRANCHE-SUR-MER: Part 2

Again at 7 in the morning, Jazz did his wakeup la biss for borh Chad an me. I was into my bathing suit in minutes and immediately started towards the same spot as yesterday for my morning swim. Jazz had anticipated my action and was sitting on the promenade in front of La Vie waiting for mw. We did the same swim as yesterday and were back to the boat in 30 minutes. Again, Chad had prepared breakfast. This morning it was a sunny side up egg stuffed in a croissant, sage sausage links,  and coffee for each. Jazz's bowl was filled with dry dog food topped with pieces of sausage. As I was being served, Chad noted the bold orange color of the yolks compared to the medium yellow yokes that are common in NOLA. I stated that such eggs are common throughout France. But in the U.S., such eggs are the normal in the Amish communities, particularly where the hens' feed has yellow-orange pigments instead of corn or alfalfa meal; another cuisine note for Chad.

With breakfast complete, the we enjoyed additional coffee on the aft deck. At that point, I checked again on the Delta sight and could see that Sara's flight into NCE was on time. Additionally, she was seated at 4F. I had specifically reserved that side of plane so that it would give her an excellent view of Villefranche sur Mer as the plane would normally go around Nice and come in from the East. I turned to Chad,  "Mom should be in the village by 2 this afternoon. It is an relatively easy transfer from the airport to here by taking the metro to the Nice marina, and then the #607 bus to the main road above in the village. Jazz and I will go up there to meet her and bring her down to La Vie.  During that time, I suggest you have lunch on the square at one of the several bistros there." "Sounds good, Dad." "We are fortunate that the exchange rate between the $ and the € is nearly one-to-one. That was not the case just 3 years ago when the $ suffered by nearly 30% compared to the €." Finished with our coffee, Chad went below to clean up from breakfast. With Jazz following, I went into the village to buy a bouquet to present to Sara upon her arrival at the boat. I always arranged to have flowers in the destination room during their many trips, as well as for anniversaries and her birthdays. Which reminds, me I later found out that the Vevue Cliqcout Champagne that was on La Vie when we boarded in Monaco was from Sara. Such a Dear

Having brought the bouquet back to the boat,  Jazz and I then started up the hill to the bus stop to meet Sara, not knowing which bus she would actually catch. There was also Sara's favorite patisserie near the bus stop that had an excellent assortment of her favorite delicacies not available elsewhere in the village. She particularly enjoyed la religieuse (the nun) that is a stack of 2 cream puffs filled with a coffee-flavored custard topped with chocolate ganache. I was always amused in the past when Sara would bite off the top and then sloppily work her way through the bottom portion. This was one of the many memories that endeared her to me, the otherwise most-gracious woman that she is.  

Having been to the village before, Sara knew the appropriate bus stop of 2 in the village. She only had her carryon bag in that I had arranged for her luggage at the airport to be delivered to the boat. Having slept on the flat beds on Delta in first class from JFK to NCE, she was well rested. As she stepped off the bus, she dropped her carryon and placed her arms around me holding me so tightly letting out a deep breath. "I am here with you and Chad. My favorite place in the world for now the three of us." After an engaging kiss, she let loose of me and said, "Who is this gorgeous creature?", as she stooped to give Jazz a full body hug. "Love, this is Jazz who is now a full member of our crew. He will be with me during the full cruise .... and perhaps beyond" She responded with a doubtful "Hmmmmm."  As I took charge of her carryon, I presented her with the patisseries with a broad smile. "The boat, La Vie, awaits you Darling." We then headed down the hill to the harbor holding hands. Jazz led the way, but frequently looking back for assurance that I was still behind him.

When we reached the square which was high enough above the promenade to view that boats tied up there. I stopped and turned to Sara. "So Love, of the boats before you, on which one would you like to spend the next 4 weeks?" She paused and then laughed saying, " I like that beauty that Jazz dove into the water next to it, and is now on the foredeck." I smiled, "You are going to greatly enjoy the presence of Jazz during this trip. That is his passed owner's boat, and he is quite amazing. Well, except for his sloppy kiss on the cheek to wake you up at 7 or so." She smiled, "I think I can get use to that. That is, along with your attention, my Love." she said with a wink.

Once on board, Sara went below to shed her travel clothes and take a refreshing shower. Within 15 minutes she emerged in shorts, a loose cotton top, and espadrilles to join me on the aft deck. I was well prepared for her with the bouquet I had purchased along with a chilled bottle of sparkling rosé from Provence. I stood and took her hand to sit on the port bench. "That's the look that I have missed on this trip", Dad said as I patted her left behind. "I love the bouquet. You never fail me." "My pleasure. So first the sparkling rosé, and then I will provide you the latest on Toque." I filled 2 flutes, and twe toasted her arrival. I continued, "Chad should be here in an hour or so. He left a note that he had gone to the beach for several hours." This was his last 'free' day until he entered the Institute de Francaise the next day, I then continued by explaining the discussion with Chad regarding how to differentiate Toque from the Michelin Star. Sara didn't hesitate in voicing her approval for the 'sharing /comfort' consideration other than the haute cuisine scope of Michelin. Again,  we raised our flutes and toasted to 'Son and Toque'. WE had almost finished the sparkling rosé when we noticed Jazz leaping from the bow to the promenade to greet Chad approaching. I placed my arm around Sara and said, "I would like to bring Jazz to the States." Without hesitation, She responded, "I would love that. My firm can handle the legal process. I will address that once I am back in NOLA." With the sparkling rose' remaining, we toasted to, 'Jazz in the U.S.' 

Chad was still wet from the fresh water shower at the beach as he came aboard. Sara gave him a huge hug as Jazz stood by their side looking up at the two with his tail wagging. I then spoke. "Just how was the water Chad?" "Freaking cold."  I continued, "We are here early in the season. But over the next 4 weeks in your free time, you will adapt. You missed the sparking rosé, but at dinner I will make up for that." Chad went below to dress. "Love, we are having dinner tonight at our favorite restaurant from visits past." She quickly responded. "You mean of course la Belle Étoile?" "Of course." 

Her luggage was delivered at that point, and she went below to stow her clothes in the closet attached to the V-birth. I then called Jazz, and we took a walk towards the fort for Jazz's relief. It was apparent to me that Jazz had been in this village before as the dog headed up the hill to the park overlooking the square. Upon returning to La Vie after a long walk, Sara and Chad were sitting on the aft deck enjoying a glass of Port. I went below to change into casual clothes and subsequently joined the two for a glass of Port as Jazz finished his meal that Chad hd set out for him. It was an hour before our reservation at La Belle Étoile, and we spent that time discussing Toque. Most importantly, Sara expressed her support of what I had told her earlier. Surprisingly to the Sara and I, Chad expressed some concern of this concept of a Toque rating approach that, as he stated, "was more casual. quite proletariat than that of Michelin's rating for haute cuisine." I immediately spoke up, "That is the point. You clearly cannot, and do not want to, compete with Michelin for several reasons. They have a very limited presence in the U.S. They cannot afford to compete with your market of the masses in the U.S. that identify with American, home-style cooking versus that of French haute cuisine. With Toque you can provide true value for improving the restaurant experiences in the U.S. for the middle class. They deserve such attention and guidance in their dining that Michelin can not provide them. A case in point is that there are NO Michelin stars in NOLA or even Dallas, Philadelphia, Atlanta, Miami, and Salt Lake, yet alone Pittsburgh, Birmingham, Fort Worth, L.A. and so many other major cities across the U.S."  I paused, "The challenge for you is two-fold: First is to set up a pragmatic criteria for the restaurant in those cities that is appropriate for the middle class; Second, your task is providing the guidelines that can be used by LOCAL personnel to perform in their evaluations. In a sense, I am suggesting you develop a pragmatic approach that can be readily applied across the U.S. Such an approach will include some sort evaluation of comfort, sharing, sauces, atmosphere, service, price, spirits value, quality. etc, as we have already discussed initially." As before in NOLA at the yacht club, Sara spoke up saying, "I think you may want to promote your approach via a marketing campaign titled 'The Toques of the Town.' We all laughed. With that said, I suggested that we head towards the restaurant. As we stood to leave the boat, Jazz once again jumped from the bow and sat on the promenade waiting for our arrival. Sara turned to me and said, "I do love this Jazz." I smiled with Chad not yet knowing of our plan for Jazz.

We passed the square where there were several minstrels working for tips. These performers are common on the weekends and would move from restaurant to restaurant along the promenade. Once at La Belle Etoile, we were graciously greeted bTamarra, the wife of the Chef/Owner Manuel. "Bonne soirée mes amis. Welcome. I see two here that I don't know" With la biss around, I introduced Chad and Jazz. Tamarra continued, "I have the table prepared in the fresh air that you have always preferred." as she led them down the narrow walkway. With menus provided and taking their cocktail orders, she went inside to tell Manual of their arrival. She knew from the past that I enjoyed speaking with Manual directly regarding both the wine list and the menu for the evening. 

Tamarra returned shortly with the cocktails followed by an amuse-bouche for each; another cuisine point noted by Chad. She said that Chef would be out shortly to discuss the wine and menu. (Manuel was always referred to directly as 'Chef' when in the restaurant,) Dad spoke in Tamarrra's presence, "Chad, other than Tamarra being a most-gracious host, she is also responsible for the amuse-bouche offerings, which I have noticed to change every time I am here. Thank you." "You are welcome, mon ami. Here comes Chef." With firm handshakes and la biss with Wife, followed by an introduction of Chad and Jazz, Manuel sat down at the table, and Tamarra departed. After some quick catching-up, I introduced the Toque concept, "Chef, not now since you are very busy of course,  but Chad wishes to send you a brief description of what he is planning to do aligned with obtaining his Masters degree. As will be explained in greater detail via an email, he wishes to create a restaurant rating approach, similar to Michelin, but for a broader market of other than haute cuisine." I went on briefly to explain the two excursions that Chad would be taking during the trip to advance his education. With that done, Manuel discussed the menu and provided his recommendation for the wine. The orders were placed including the wine and a bowl of water for Jazz. He noted before returning to the kitchen, "As you remember Monsieur Zach, the seafood you have ordered was swimming this morning in the sea." I responded with a smile, "Of course, Chef.

 Within several minutes, Tamarra delivered a bottle of Coteaux du Languedoc Les Clapas Pas de l'Escalette in a chiller. But before doing a tasting, I requested Tamarra to bring a bottle of Veuve Clicquot, "There is some celebration we should address first. Also Tamarra, please bring a flute for yourself if you wish to join us. Also ask Chef to hold preparing our food order for 20 minutes or so as we enjoy the Champagne".  While waiting for the Champagne, I described several of the activities Sara and I would be enjoying while Chad was in the Institute. I explained that, "Only part of the 4 weeks will be spent sailing, and that would be a round trip to Corsica which is approximately 130 nautical miles each way." Hearing this, Sara raised her eyebrows with an exuberant expression of glee, "REALLY? That is so fantastic", and she reached over and kissed my cheek. I continued, "This means that one of us will be handling the helm and the other sleeping one night each way. Are you OK with that?" "Aye!, Aye! Captain. A great new sailing challenge for us."   

Before I could describe the other activities I had planned for the 4 weeks, Tamarra appeared with the 4 flutes, followed by the Champagne. With 3 of the flutes filled and hers only half way, I said. "Here is to this most remarkable trip for the family, and for Chad's extraordinary education-to-be that will serve him so well in his MBA program and beyond." 'Cheers' and tapping of flutes was made around. Tamarra finished her Champagne and left them to attend to other customers arriving. I continued to discuss the activities for the next 4 weeks. "With Mom's approval, we will be attending the infamous Jazz Festival in Nice and visiting the Exotic Gardens at the Rothschild Mansion across the bay in Cap Ferret. I also expect us to enjoy a number days on the beach at Plaque Petite Afrique located in Beaulieu-sur-Mer, the next village East. Of course Mom loves Plage Mala as I do, so at least one visit there. Sara again responded enthusiastically as she threw up her arms in excitement, "I am with you Monsieur."  Chad responded, "Mom, really? I have never seen you like this before." "Chad, this is the favorite spot in the world for your Dad and me. I hope you will feel the freedom that your Dad and I do when we are here. I wish you to open your heart and your mind to this wonderful environment. You know and understand NOLA for what it offers. But, here there is so so much more for you to enjoy."  With that the Champagne was finished, and Tamarra arrived to open the bottle of wine.

I did the tasting noting that I was familiar with the wines of Languedoc being of great value given the region's recent commercial appellation status. With my approval, Tamarra filled the 3 wine glasses. She then returned with a bowl of water for jazz, including glacons. As Jazz started slurping the water, Chad began, "Mom, Dad,  you have provided me with this most extraordinary experience along the Rivera. You two have not only been great parents, but also phenomenal role models. I am very positive about what I am pursuing and truly appreciate the importance of your support." As Mom wiped a tear from her cheeks, she said, ''Thank you Son." In a timely fashion, Tamarra arrived with a basket of artesian bread and a small bowl of olive oil with parmesan cheese on the side. Before he could ask, Tamarra turned to me, "Monsieur Zach, I will bring you a sampling of salts as you have always requested in the past." I nodded with a smile and turned to Chad, "I don't know what the rules are at the Institute as to your free time there, especially on the weekends, but if La Vie is here, then please use it as you wish. I only ask that if we are not here, and the boat is, that you have one other person with you if you wish to go sailing." "Absolutely, and thanks Dad." At that point, Tamarra and one assistant arrived with the plats. Sara and I had the Darne of Turbot, shellfish sauce, and Son had the Beef Filet, port jus. As I noticed during dinner is that Chad would oc casionally slip a few pieces of beef to Jazz that was by his side.

Once finished with their plats, Tamarra arrived to clear the dishes and ask about dessert. Uncommon for this family, I ordered 2 servings of the brownie with vanilla ice cream to be shared by all of usAs with the eggs, Chad commented on the rich yellow of the ice cream as well as its smooth, semi-gloss texture. I pointed out, "This is 'French Vanilla that includes egg yolks in the making. Also, I remember that Chef has the ice cream beaten smooth to breakup the ice crystals before being scooped; another cuisine note for Son.

Well satisfied with our meal and wine, I signaled Tamarra for la addition by crossing my hands in a 'T'.  Both Tamarra and Manuel came out to thank us for coming and wishing us back soon. I reminded Chef of the contact Son will have with him soon. With that the family stood, and I stated, "Always excellent Chef. Bonne nuit."

On the way back to La Vie, I suggested that we stop at the bar of Hotel Welcome where another acquaintance from the past worked. As expected, Fred, the manager, was there this night.  We sat at a table next to the promenade and Fred quickly approached us.  "Hello, Hello, my friends. I heard you were in the village on that very handsome boat across from here." I explained quickly our trip. At that point he said, "It is my pleasure to treat you all to your favorite of the past, green Chartreuse on the rocks." "Merci beaucoup, Fred. This is my son, Chad, and he will be attending the Institute de Francaise for the next 4 weeks. Therefore, I expect you will see more of him as well as Sara and me as we travel around for that period." While they waited for the drinks, Sara checked with Chad as to his preparation to go to the Institute the next day. Their conversation was light as they looked over the harbor and the lights reflecting from Cap Ferrat. When we finished our drinks, I left a €10 bill. and waved to Fred inside as we headed to the boat. I turned to Chad and asked him to walk Jazz in the nearby park. It was only another 15 minutes when all were onboard and prepared for bed with Jazz staying on the aft deck.

 

 VILLEFRANCHE-SUR-MER: Part 3

Reliably at 7 in the morning, Jazz left his bench on the aft-deck and went below to make his 'la biss' rounds. He started first with Sara and then me in the V-berth. Chad was next in the aft-berth. Jazz then went back to the galley and lay` down by his 2 feed bowls. Instead of getting up immediately, I reached over and closed the door to the berth. Sara and I had some catching up to do in this favorite part of the world. Sara was not quick to respond to my pulling her into me, but then she became aware of where we were. She wiped her left cheek and said, "What's with the really sloppy kiss, my Dear?" I said nothing, and then she said, "Oh! That was Jazz." I mused, "You have now been fully initiated as a crew member of La Vie." She laughed, "But Captain, what about your initiation of this first MATE?" Nothing more needed to be said as we found each other.

Chad had awakened immediately with Jazz's 'morning call'. Noticing the closed door to the V-berth, he expected that his parents were not going to appear soon. He well understood the healthy relationship between his parents. However, Jazz needed to be fed. So he went to the galley and filled each of Jazz's bowls with dry food and water, respectively. He had to be at the Institute at 9, which was a 20-minute walk up from the boat. So, he spent the next 1/2-hour packing his backpack and roller board. With that finished, he went to the refrigerator and to get two eggs to poach. Our particular way of cooking them entailed first separating the "loose' white of the egg with a sieve, and then placing the remaining white and yolk in a small dish with vinegar.  He would drop them into nearly water for precisely 3 minutes 40 seconds for 2 eggs. As he was doing so, Sara and I appeared in our PJ's. Sara said. "Good morning my son.", as she gave him a kiss on the cheek. I was headed towards the head when Chad said, "Are you two interested in some breakfast?" responded, "Not this morning. We want to get you off to the Institute, and then we will have breakfast on the square." Chad replied, "I'll be ready in 25 minutes."

With Sara and I dressed and the dishes cleaned by Chad, we were off the boat. Jazz was already half way down the promenade towards the beach expecting to go swimming with me. He turned around and quickly caught up as the family headed towards the square. Chad continued on his way to the Institute as the we gave him hugs and took a table aLes Palmiers. Jazz paused at that moment in that it was clear that he didn't know whether to follow Chad or take a seat at the table. In a way, it was a sad moment for Sara to see Jazz's confusion. But that was resolved when I called him to 'come'.

At this point, this port-of-call splits into 2 travel logs for the 4 weeks there. The remaining portion of this episode and the next 2 episodes address Chad's experiences while at the institute for the next 4 weeks. The following 2 episodes after that address the travel log for Sara and Me for those 4 weeks.

CHAD: part 1 of 3

Chad arrived at the Institute de Francaise at 8:45. As he is walking up the hill from the square, he can see the people gathering on a patio behind the Institute. He approaches a small desk where a young lady is sitting with a laptop. He had studied some common French phrases and stumbled through, "Bonjour, je m'appelle Chad Broussard". She responded, "Bonjour Chad Broussard. I will be signing you in now, and then you can join your fellow students over there for croissants and café. Be aware that the last English you will hear spoken here is what I am now saying. " Chad understood that the course was about 'Immersion', but not 'TOTAL IMMERSION'.  

Chad joined the group of students and introduced himself to several of them. Their French responses were as clumsy as his introductions. He now felt a bit more comfortable in that it was clear that he would not be the only one struggling with French-only conversation. What impressed him during this introduction process was that no one was cheating with his or her native language. And by their statements, he could tell by his or her individual accents that there were multiple native languages present. As he was looking around at the grounds below him, he saw HER in the corner of the patio alone. She was extraordinary in her presence with her flowing skirt and loose blouse. With the bay of Villefrance sur Mer framing her, Chad actually felt a shiver in his body as he took in the sight of her. He had never experienced such a sensation, even when romantically involved with his young ladies in NOLA. This moment would affect him during the next 4 weeks. He decided to bypass the other students and approach her by herself.  "Bonjour Mademoiselle.  Je m'appelle Chad Broussard." She smiled reaching, " Bonjour Monsieur Chad, Je m'appelle Carina Johanson" Chad laughed placing both hands in the air as in surrendering and then making a gesture as if he was speechless, since he had nothing else to say in French. They both laughed. He nodded and returned to the group for more of the challenging all-French converations.

The first week of total immersion was indeed very challenging for all. Reading French was much easier than conversational French. Not only was it total immersion as to language, but also as to staying on the grounds during the weekdays and being void of outside communications during the daytime and early evening. The students' cell phones and computers were available to them upon request between 9-11 pm on the weekdays and all day on the weekends. Any outside emergency messages were received by the school's administration and immediately passed on to the individual, of course. 

The students were teamed in pairs. His assigned teammate was, in fact, HER. She was the stereotypical Scandinavian beauty with a statuesque physique and flowing blond hair. Keeping in mind my point to him earlier of the importance of this class for his future, he had to constrain his 20's male desires when teaming with Carina on their assignments. Interestingly, the struggle of the 2 when working together on their assignments in only French actually enhanced their relationship other than romantically, at least at first.

 

On Friday he checked his phone and noticed 2 voice mails. The first was from me to inform him that we were back in Villefrance sur Mer and would be out of the village from early Saturday morning to Sunday evening. I explained that we were taking the train to Cannes and elsewhere down there for an overnight visit. The second message had a France country code. Somewhat confused, he called the number. "Hello, this is Chad. You left me a message to call you. What can I do for you?" "So Chad is your name. I like that name. I am Bridgett. We met briefly at Plague Mala, and I manipulated you so as to exchange our cell numbers." He loved her French accent. "Yes! Hello Bridgett. I remember you ... and your white bikini, well at least the bottoms." They both laughed. He also liked her laugh, It was youngish in tone, but mature in substance. "Not knowing where you are now, I was hoping, Chad, that we may get together for a dinner perhaps." Chad paused. "Ahhhh Yes! I would like that. I am in Villefrance at the Institute de Francaise. Is that convenient to you?" "My Dear Monsieur, I live in Beaulier sur Mer, the next village East of you." "Yes, I know of the it." "Excellante!" She continued, "You are from the States, oui?" "Oui Mademoiselle." He was already enjoying this repartee with this young French woman. "So American Chad, I am taking the first step here for you to meet me in Villefranche around 1 tomorrow at The Good Time Cafe along the promenade just before entering the beach area. We can have lunch there and then enjoy the afternoon on the beach. And then, in the evening you MAY buy me dinner in the village." She paused, but he said nothing. She continued, "However, I will need a place to change out of my bikini BOTTOMS and freshen upDo you have a place other than the Institute on the hill?" Chad was not use to such aggressiveness. Remembering that Sarah and I would be gone Saturday night, he continued. "Actually, I have a sail boat with a fresh water shower in the slips in front of Hotel Welcome. Mademoiselle Bridgett, I must say that I am glad you have called. I have just the restaurant for us, La Belle Étoile." "I know it well Monsieur Chad. You have great taste. So!, at 1 tomorrow we will meet at the cafe, and we can work on other aspects of your introduction to French culture other than just language at the Institute." "I look forward to that. BonnsoiréeMademoiselle Bridgett." "Bonne soiréeMonsieur Chad" Knowing of the popularity of the restaurant, he immediately called and spoke with Tamarra for a reservation for 2 at 8PM, again outside. Chad told me later that his 'blood was rushing' at that point without thinking about my advice. 

He then returned to the patio to have wine and Hors d'oeuvres with the other students. Carina was already there and waved to him as he entered the patio. "Bonne soirée Chad" "Bonne soirée Carina. Pointing to her linen outfit that accentuated her physique, he continued, "Tu es ravissante." "Merci beaucoup, Monsieur" He was now lost as to how to continue in French, as was she based upon the look on her face. "For this evening, can we continue in English? After all, we are 'off the clock', so to speak." "I agree Chad." She continued, "I think we are an excellent pairing. You obviously are passionate about this course .... and patient with me as we go through the assignments. I greatly appreciate that." "As do I as to your patience with me." "Chad, I am thinking that we could both benefit about knowing more about the other." "I like that Carina." Smiling broadly, she said, "Great, I suggest we have lunch in the village tomorrow where we can relax as travelers to this lovely village." "Wow!" and then he paused remembering Bridgett. "Ahhhh ..... actually, ahhhh, my parents and I, ahhhh, plan to sail tomorrow. We have a boat in a slip by the Hotel Welcome." "Oh, that sounds lovely. How about a late déjeuner around 1 on Sunday?" "That sounds super. May I suggest Bistro de L'etoile? I have yet to eat there, but reviews are excellent "Super! Chad." Then clumsily he said, "I know so little about your country." With that said, he excused himself with the reason that he needed to prepare for the sailing tomorrow. "Bonne nuit Carina" and then in English, "You DO look lovely tonight." Again she smiled, "I have been told about the charm of American males. More please. Bonne nuit, kind sir."

The next morning, Chad awoke after a rather sleepless night. He told me later that his mind was spinning with thoughts of both Carina and Bridgett. He did remember my point that he would meet many women in France that would be very enticing to his American psyche. He decided to skip the petite déjeuner provided by the Institute, even though that meant passing up another opportunity to interact with Carina. Walking out to the Institute's patio, he could see the other beach of village, Plaqe Darse. Being outside of the seawall at the marina, I had pointed the beach out to him as we sailed into the harbor. I noted that his Mom and I had gone to this beach on the weekends to avoid the crowds at the other beach for which Villefranche sur Mer is best known. With a 'go-cup' of café creme from the buffet, he headed for this beach. Once there, he found it to be carpeted, not with sand, but with uncomfortable rocks. He had only a towel with him, and he decided to go to La Vie to grab some additional towels as well as to care for Jazz's needs in that I had left him on the boat. I had instructed Chad to care for him over the weekend. 

Once on the boat, he first took care of Jazz's requirements. He then straightened up below deck, especially his berth, given Bridgett would be there to change for dinner and ... He purposely stopped there in his mind. With everything in order on the boat, he placed a bottle of rosé in the cooler and headed to Plage des Marinieres. It was just beyond the café where he was to meet Bridgett at 1.

He had several hours on the beach before meeting Bridgett. As he approached the crescent shaped beach, he could see that there were both sandy and rocky areas. The deep purple bougainvillea vines that draped the retainer wall below the train tracks added a sense of royalty to the beginning stretch of the beach. Beyond that, the beach had mixed sections of sand and rocks with only a few shade trees along a car lane that follows the curve of the beach to the parking lot at the end. He remembered that I had told him of the café halfway around curve that served an excellent salad nicoise as well as cantaloupe wrapped in prosciutto. Within minutes he had walked the distance to the café and then took the steps there to the beach. Settled on his straw mat, he decided to have Bridgett meet him there instead of the café along promenade. He called her and left a message about where he was on the beach. After all, since she lived in Beaulieu sur Mer, she would have less than a 10 minutes walk to meet him. 

After only 20 minutes in the sun, he headed for the water. He said he took my advice and dived into the water instead of walking in. For the first time in this chilling water under the blazing sun, one should commit totally with a dive into the water. I also told him to exhale as he entered the water. Lastly, I suggested he stay near the surface without going deep where the water was much colder at that time of the year. For the next several hours before Bridgett would arrive, he alternated several times between sunning on the beach and swimming out to the line of buoys 100 meters out that marked the swimming area. Within several ins & outs, the water's temperature was no longer an issue.

It was nearly 1, and he was quite hungry having nothing since the previous dinner at the Institute. He was thinking that salad nicoise and a 1/2 pichet rosé would be perfect at this point. Crossed legs on the straw mat, he looked to his left towards Beaulieu sur Mer expecting Bridgett to appear at any time. He realized that he really didn't remember Bridgett as to her face per sé, but rather to her overall topless body and short hair. Suddenly, there was tap on his right shoulder. "American Chad, Yes?" He stumbled as he awkwardly stood to receive her. "Oui, Mademoiselle." Even more awkwardly he held out his hand to shake. Bridgett was having nothing of that and held his head in her hads as she gave a kiss to each of his cheeks. "American Chad, this is how we greet our friends ... and lovers in the open." She paused. "As I said before, I think I can be very helpful to you in understanding French culture beyond just the language." They both laughed. She had on a full bikini as well as carrying a straw mat, a large beach towel, and a bag with her dinner clothes. She immediately took control of the situation by placing her straw mat next to his with the bag and towel, and then taking off her top. "I need to go for a swim immediately," as she grabbed his hand and pulled him towards the water. He responded immediately entering the water with her. Once out several meters, she said "I will meet you at buoy 13", and she took off swimming effortlessly. Chad paused for a moment as this 'water nymph' left him standing in the shallow water. By the time he swam to the buoy, she was floating on her back with her breasts just breaking the surface. As Chad would explain to me later, his mind would continue to be consumed by thoughts of this fascinating sprite.  

As they swam along the line of buoys with the reflection of the lush bougainvillea draping the restraining wall, Bridgette suddenly went under the water in front of him and surfaced behind him holding him tightly to her chest. Speaking softly into his left ear she said, "I'm hungry Chad." "Got it Bridgett", and they swam together to shore and rested on their mats for several minutes. Chad suggested that they try the café just above them on the car lane. "Yes, I know it well, Chad." She was purposely continuing a shift to a most casual first name basis. As at Plage Mala, she covered her upper body with a light wrap to be served food.   

Once seated at a café table on the edge of the café. Chad decided to get more personal with this woman that had become so enticing to him. When the waiter arrived with the menus, Chad first ordered a pichet de rosé et carafe d'eau. Purposely leaving her wrap loosely opened, she teased, "Chad, I see you are learning the most important French first." Not waiting for the rosé, he said, "Well, there is one very important phrase that I am still working on to translate into French." She took the bait, "And what phrase would that be?" Chad took a breath. "I would like to say in French 'Will you stay the night with me on my sailboat in the harbor ... Breakfast is included?'" She laughed out loud at the unexpected boldness of this American. She reached across the table and took his hands in hers. "As you Americans say, 'You betcha'. However, I will have to leave Sunday morning for church and family events." As they released hands to receive the rosé, Chad only then remembered that he was meeting with Carina Sunday afternoon. They were now silently staring into each other's eyes as the waiter poured the wine into the glasses. In sync they raised their glasses and toasted to the evening to come. Interestingly, Bridgett pulled her wrap closer around her. Chad was charmed by this sign of modesty in this developing intimate relationship. 

They both relaxed in their chairs and took up the menus. Not knowing what to say next, Chad started by describing the boat in greater detail than was necessary. Recognizing his possible nervousness, she interrupted him by reaching again across the table and taking his left hand in hers. "Chad, I am so looking forward to this afternoon and then dinner at la Belle Étoile. To end the evening on a sailboat in the harbor on such a gorgeous night is a dream for me." "Well then, that's super. Let's order." He paused placing the menu aside, "I am going with the salde nicoise that I understand is excellent here." "Make that two, Chad", as she released her hand from his. With the order placed, they exchanged thoughts about their personnel interests. She was quite inquisitive about his forthcoming voyage along the coast. She would occasionally add comments about the individual ports of call as Chad described the trip plan. Chad was impressed by her knowledge to the point that he started thinking about the possibility of her joining him for at least part of the sailing, that is depending upon her availability .... and my agreement.  

Finishing the salads and rosé, he paid la addition. They headed back to the beach and spent the remainder of the afternoon in & out of the water. By 5 they had expended themselves in energy and slightly flirtatious conversation. Suddenly, Chad stood. "Let's go Bridgett. I have an excellent chilled rosé on the boat waiting to be consumed." She stood and put on the top of her bikini. With their stuff gathered, it was a 10 minutes walk along the promenade to La Vie.  

Once on La Vie, Chad, with a wink, mentioned that Sara and I were on a weekend visit to Cannes and Grasse, and that we would not be back until Sunday night. Bridgett winked back with a smile and went below to take a fresh water shower once Chad explained how the plumbing worked for the toilet as well. He followed her below deck to get the chilled rosé. Without hesitation she started to strip off her bikini before entering the very small 'head'. Chad grabbed the rosé from cooler and two wine glasses on his way to the aft deck. With the wine poured, she appeared in 15 minutes dressed in a linen blouse and loose, short shorts. Her hair was brushed and surrounded her face in gentle waves. He audibly gasped at her beauty. "You like Chad?" "You betcha." They both laughed at his repeating her use of the American colloquialism. He loved the 'freedom' in her laugh and the innocence in her presence, whether dressed or undressed. Without hesitation, Jazz jumped up next to her on the bench and placed his head on her lap. Bridgett was startled at first and then remembered Chad taking several trips to and from the boat at Plage Mala. As she snuggled up to Jazz and asked, "Who is our chaperone here, Chad?" "This is Jazz. He came with boat rental and is now a trusted crewmember for our voyage. Hearing his name, Jazz raised his head and began licking Bridgett's right hand. Without hesitating she said, "Really Chad, is this some type of foreplay on the boat?" Chad shook his head and said in a faux haughtiness "No Bridgett, I am totally capable of handling my romancing efforts." He thought, 'That was a rather strange statement.' He then said with a broad smile, "However, he does like to watch." With that, they both laughed again, and the awkward moment ended. They finished the rosé as Chad described the voyage in greater detail including the two excursions. With their last sips, Bridgett said, "You have told me so much about yourself and the voyage. Sooooo, over dinner, it is my turn to talk about me. Okay?" Once again, "You betcha. I'm sorry if I overdid my excitement about this trip. Yes, I DO want to know much more about you." With that said, the two left La Vie to go to La Belle Étoile. Once on the promenade, Chad looked back and saw Jazz sitting on the bow. He called to him to come, and the 3 were on their way with Jazz leading the way.

Tamarra greeted them with her normal charm. Recognizing Bridgett, she gave her a warm hug and la biss. "Welcome back Bridgett. So good to see you again and in such good company", as she petted Jazz. "Are your parents not joining us Monsieur Chad?" "They are in the South, and tonight is my relief from the intensity of the Institute." "I fully understand." He thought for a moment and said to Bridgett. With your permission, I would like to order what my Dad and I had the other night." "You betcha, Monsieur." With that he turned to Tamarra, "Pease repeat the meal AND wine that my Dad and I had the other day."  "It is so ordered, Monsieur Chad. Only the amuse bouche will be different." and she left.

It was another superb food experience for the two. With la addition paid as well as a handsome tip (as per his father's influence), the 2 left for La Vie. Jazz led the way. Once at the boat, he asked her to stay on the aft deck while he went below for a nightcap of Port. Jazz was sitting on the bench next to her as Chad brought up 2 glasses of Port and sat on the other side of her. Jazz's head was resting on her thigh, and clearly had no desire to move.  Chad casually toasted the extraordinary day with her. She clicked her glass to his and said, "The day is not over American Chad." They looked into each other's eyes and no words were spoken after that as they viewed the night scene and finished their Port. They left Jazz on the aft deck and went below for the night. 

After several hours of thoroughly enjoying each other's fantasies, Bridgett collapsed into his arms and was soon asleep. Chad, while being exhausted, was amazed with this FRENCH woman. As she snuggled her head next to his, he could sense a scent behind her left ear that was so soothing ... so different than his lovers in the U.S. For a moment he thought that if this was indeed a cultural difference, which should be considered as part of the Toque evaluation. He laughed at himself for this thought, and pulled Bridgette closer to him and was soon asleep.

Yes! At 7 Jazz was on top of them licking Bridgett's exposed cheek first. "Mon Dieu!" was Bridgett's immediate response. She then realized it was Jazz and not Chad. She released her arms around Chad and pulled Jazz down by her other side and hugged him dearly. Chad awoke and rolled to his other side gazing at the two. Smiling, he said, "Well now. How long has this been going on behind my back?" She laughed, "I only contacted you so I could get close to your dog." "If you would like a fabulous petit-déjeuner, you then need to make up with me now for this discretion." She kissed Jazz on his forehead and moved over to be in Chad's arms once again. Jazz left for the aft deck.

It was another hour before the two were up. While Bridgett showered, Chad made his version of slowly cooked, French scrambled eggs with sour cream, chives, and heavy cream. She emerged from the head with a generous towel wrapped around her. As she headed toward the berth to dress, he intercepted her and gently removed the towel from her body. He wanted one last remberance and one last touch before she departed. She laughed lightly and turned to embrace him tightly. Once she was dressed, she joined Chad on the aft deck where the breakfast was served. It was a gorgeous morning with the clear, blue sky. A cruise ship had arrived in the bay overnight, and the tourists where streaming down the promenade heading for the train station for 1 day explorations in Cannes or Monte Carlo. Jazz left La Vie and sat on the promenade in front of La Vie waiting their attention ... and possible treats. 

At first the conversation was light between the 2 as they consumed the eggs, croissants, and café. Chad then started with a more aggressive conversation, "I am so glad that you initiated us getting together this weekend. To be honest, as we say in the States, I am a 'babe in the woods" in being involved with other than American mademoiselles." She quickly interrupted him, "But Chad, I would like to think that we have only begun your introduction to French ways, as I mentioned yesterday" Somewhat truthfully he responded, "You mean that there is more for me to learn." "You betcha American Chad." They both laughed. With a pause, she then said. "Actually, my 'student', there is much more that I am willing, I desire, to share. That is, if you are interested and have the time." He tilted his head and joyfully said, "YES! to both."  He paused, and with a broad smile, "Do I get a certificate of some sort?" Standing up in preparing to leave, "American Chad, you may be quite surprised what you get ... once you finish the course." Chad's face took on a very quizzical look. "But for now, mon élève, I must depart. I will be in contact with you soon to discuss your next lesson." He stood to embrace her and kiss her passionately. She grabbed her gear that she had brought up on deck and departed, giving Jazz a long embrace as she passed him on the promenade. Chad watched her departure with a mixture of feelings that he would think about until their next being together. He really knew so little about her. Their time together had been more about him then her.  As Jazz continued to enjoy the stream of tourists, Chad went below and took a long shower. In several hours he would be having brunch with Carina.

 

CHAD: Part 2 of 3

With Bridgett gone, Chad decided a 20 minutes nap would be good given his exhaustion from the night's romancing. He was a daily user of such naps , but normally in the late afternoon. Jazz joined him in the berth lying beside him. He awoke at 11 and noticed Bridgett's unique scent on the pillow. He then realized that her scent was on his body. Regretfully, a shower was required given his meeting with Carina at 1. Also, he needed to change the bedding just in case.... Out loud he said, "What is happening here? This is not what I am use to." Again, he remembered me telling him that 'In France he would likely be introduced to a number of fine young ladies. But, that his course at the Institute was the most critical.' With Jazz by his side before he headed to the shower, Chad held Jazz's head in his two hands and said, "I have to be 'cool' with Carina." However, that turned out not to be the case. After a long shower, Chad dressed in his best linen shorts and his silk shirt that he purchased from Tommy Bahama in the U.S.. He did want to look 'cool'. But, he would not be flirting  with Carina during their déjeuner. Just before 1, he left La Vie along with Jazz to secure a table at Bistro de L'etoile and wait for Carina. The bistro is known for its Toulous-style cuisine, especially the grilled duck avec an orange sauce.

Once seated with Jazz at his side, he ordered a pichet de Chardonnay. Given that Carina had mentioned her passion for duck during the week, he also requested the waiter to place 2 orders of the duck 10 minutes after Mademoiselle arrived. As he sat there, he couldn't get Bridgett off his mind. Suddenly, Jazz sat up, and Chad was aware of Carina approaching. "Bonne journée Chad" "Bonne journée Carina." For the first time, they exchanged kisses on each cheek. Her scent was captivating. Before he could speak further, she continued, "Who is this gorgeous chien or chienne sitting next you?" "Jazz is a chien, and absolutely the most amazing one." He then noticed how she was dressed with a very short skirt and tight blouse. The vision of her legs gave him pause.  "My goodness Carina, you look absolutely fabulous."  She laughed before he could continue. "Well! Thank you kind sir. I also like your casual dress." Chad knew that he was already challenged as to not flirting. Bridgett had started his hormones rushing the night before, and now Carina's appearance was adding fuel to his desires. He knew he had to calm himself. This déjeuner was about getting to know more about each other. Once Carina sat, Jazz immediately came to her side placing his head on her lap looking up directly into her eyes. "Min gud!, Jazz is certainly a charmer. Does he get this from you?" He laughed, "Actually, Chad came with the boat rental. I hope I can learn some charm from him." They both laughed. He then poured some Chardonnay for her and offered a toast, "Here's to knowing each other so much better that we become the étoiles of the class." They clicked their glasses and drank. He continued, "Carina, I have taken the initiative to order the grilled duck for each of us. This restaurant is known for that entrée." Tilting her head and with a slight smile she said, "So, I now know that you like to control, but with the desire to please." "Ahhhh, I guess so. Well at least, as to being with you. Is that OK?" "Actually, I am much the same way, However, I am willing to relinquish that characteristic with someone I respect .... and I find absolutely adorable and charming. I thing that outside of the Institute I will refer to you as charming Chad." He could feel his face flushing. "Well Carina, I think we are off to a great start in knowing each other." "I agree charming Chad. What's next on your mind as knowing more about each other?" Chad paused and then with a smile started, "When I meet a woman in the U.S., at a bar for example, I often ask 3 questions to start a conversation." "I'm ready." "Did I say that you look absolutely stunning?" He purposely paused. "So, the questions are first, are you a dog or cat lover? Second, do you prefer ketchup or mustard? And third, are you of a positive or negative nature?" She laughed out loud. "REALLY? Oh!, you're serious."  She sat up in her chair and firmly said without hesitation, "Dog, mustard, and very, very positive. Now what Chad?" Surprised at the firmness of her response, Chad sat back in his chair and responded, "I was just curious. Personally, I am dog, ketchup, and positive." She simply responded, "Interesting". At that point, the duck entrees were served. "Bonne appetite Carina." "Bonne appetite Chad."

Without any further discussion while they enjoyed their meals, Chad reflected on what a flirtatious woman's  response  in the States would have been: 'What do you think I am?" At that point, Chad would randomly respond as to cat/dog, and ketchup/mustard, but always positive. This interchange had no real value other than to demonstrate interest, even if it was total nonsense. The 3 questions had never failed him in starting a conservation in the States in an innocent fashion. However, this woman did not know the 'game'. This woman was so much different than Bridgett who was aggressive as to her own desires. Contrarily, Carina was a woman expecting each person to present their point equally. Both Bridgett and Carina were different than the women in NOLA who played it 'cool' in accepting or rejecting his come-on. Oddly, he thought that this point might be something to consider in developing Toque. For example, should his approach play up to the man or the woman, or to neither. Enough of that, he thought. His eyes and his mind returned to Carina.  

Having taken a sip of the wine, he asked, "Please tell me why you are attending the Institute?." "I will do that charming Chad expecting you to answer the same question." "Of course. First, I must say again that you look absolutely lovely." His flirtatious mode was kicking in automatically. "Thank you again, kind sir. Simply stated, I am taking this course to expand my opportunities internationally. In addition to my native language, I am reasonably fluent in German and Dutch given the proximately of those countries to mine. As to French, I see that to be important to pursue my expertise in the EU." She paused to enjoy some more wine. Chad purposely placed his glass down and looked directly at her. "So what is your expertise that you wish to pursue in the EU?" "Well, I am wishing to set up an exclusive travel agency for those individuals that wish to experience the unique aspects of a country, of a culture. My parents have successfully done so in the Scandinavian countries. However, I want to expand on that." "Very interesting. I have another question which I will explain in a moment after this question. Do you wish to include such experiences that are available in North America?" "Absolutely! So why do you ask?" "First, let's toast to that venture." They did, and then he proceeded to explain his goal of developing the Toque System for the very broad base of consumers that cannot afford the use of Michelin's 'Star' evaluation of restaurants. The Institute will provide me with an underlying understanding of the French language, and to some extent the culture. My Dad and I will then be taking a 1-month French cooking course in at Cap d'Agde the end of this sailing cruise to expand my knowledge of the French cuisine. All of this will prepare me for entering Stanford's MBA program. In turn I will have a sound basis for setting up my commercialization of ThToques of the Town system." She simply responded, "Min Gud, Chad. That is amazing, I think. What is this word 'toque'?" "It is the name of a Chef's hat which is my equivalent to that of Michelin's Star, but based on criteria for the majority of folks." She sat silently for a moment while he completed his meal. She then asked, "Chad, do you see your 'toque' approach to be limited to North America?" "Initially, Yes! But now knowing of your pursuits, there may be some synergy between us two after our studies here." "What is this word synergy?" "Simply stated, 'synergy' is the combination of 2 or more concepts that create value greater than the sum of those parts taken individually. In other words, you and I may be able to work together to bring value to our clients that is greater than you and I approaching them individually."  With a bashful smile she said, "Hmmmmm!  You have my interest, charming Chad. I think I would enjoy working with you after our time here." He smiled. "Perhaps you know the famous line from the movie Casablanca: 'I think this is the beginning of a beautiful relationship.'" "Yes, of course I know the line. I know everything about Ingrid Bergman. She was Swedish after all." They laughed, clicked their glasses and finished their wine. "I think we could use another pichet de Chardonnay." "Actually, I would prefer rosé at this point." "So ordered Mademoiselle." The waiter was just passing at that time, and Chad gave him the request. 

Jazz sat up and placed his head again on Carina's lap looking directly into her eyes. Carina was suddenly quiet as she automatically petted Jazz. It was clear to Chad that she was thinking about something that should not be interrupted. When the wine was served with fresh glasses and a bowl of glacons, she looked up. As Chad filled the glasses with wine and glacons, she said, "Sorry for my drifting just now. My mind just went to some thoughts on how I am moving forward with my career. To your credit, the points you made about synergy with your toque pursuit clearly has my attention.

During the next hour they finished the rosé while they exchanged thoughts as to her international perspective and his toque concept. While they were talking, she pulled out a small pad from her purse and took several notes. As much as he cherished this time with Carina, he noticed that Jazz was getting restless. Finally, as the conversation was starting to repeat several points already made by both, Chad said, "This has been absolutely lovely to have this time together to explore each of our thoughts as to moving forward after the Institute, whether individually or in some synergistic fashion. And, I greatly want to continue this conversation."  "So do I, charming Chad." she said with a comforting smile. "But, I need to get Jazz back to the boat and greet my parents whom should be arriving soon from their travels in Provence this weekend." She interrupted him, "I would love to meet them, if that is ok with you." "Absolutely, I will make that happen, but not today. My Dad will be particularly interested in listening to our developing thoughts about a synergistic business relationship." Then tilting her head in a very charming way, she said. "I'm thinking that there may be an interesting synergistic personal relationship between us. With that said, she stood and came over to Chad as he stood. "I'll see you later at the Institute for cocktails." They exchanged a passionate hug and kisses on each other's cheeks. "Bye, charming Chad. Until later." As she left the restaurant going up the alley that took her to the Institute, she casually glanced back. He was still watching her. She thought to herself, 'This is good. I have his attention.' He said outloud, "Wow, what's happening here? First there's Bridgett and now Carina."

 

CHAD: Part 3 of 3

With Carina having left, Chad paid la addition and headed back to La Vie. But, first a quick stop in the nearby park for Jazz. Once back to the boat, Chad changed into his swimming suit and took a swim off the stern of the boat. Chad had this feeling of excess physical energy that needed to be spent. Jazz was quick to follow him. Given that Chad was an excellent swimmer, he was out 100 yards or so before he stopped to see Jazz doing his best to catch up. Immediately, he turned to meet Jazz that was some distance short of his position. His sense of responsibility kicked in to take care of Jazz, and his thoughts about Bridgett and Carina were no longer on his mind.  The two turned and swam back to the boat. Once back, he showered and then prepared a platter of baguette slices and local French cheeses, along with chilling a bottle of rosé, to greet Sara and me when we arrived. He thought about what to tell us about this extraordinary weekend he had experienced with 2 enchanting young ladies. He told me later that he was concerned that I might be disappointed with him going against my point of focusing on his studies at the Institute. He was correct, at least at first. Chad had not yet matured in the discipline of establishing and pursuing the proper priorities.

About 20 minutes on the train from the Villefranche sur Mer train station, I called Chad to say that Sara and I would be at La Vie in 1/2 hour. He sounded exhausted, which I understood why once we sat on the aft deck with the snacks and the wine. He shared the events from Friday evening until Sunday afternoon. I must admit that while I was upset with his not taking my advice, I was also impressed with his entertaining 2 women in such a short time. Sara was interested in questioning him about the characteristics of the two women. However, I was more pointed in questioning what he thought about furthering his involvement with either or both women. After 45 minutes of having such a discussion with Chad, he said that he had to get back to Institute for dinner and social time. As he started to leave, Jazz sat up and started to follow him. I called Jazz back, and Sara and I looked at each other shrugging our shoulders. I then said, “ Our Son is being exposed to many things this trip. These two women are very interesting for very different reasons. I really like the synergism that Chad mentioned regarding Carina. But, I also like his being exposed to the aggressiveness of Bridgett. Sara said that she agreed, and we went on to change our clothes for the evening out.

Once back to the Institute, Chad went to his room to change into more appropriate dress for a formal Sunday dinner. Once in the dining hall he saw Carina standing behind her chair at the long dinner table. She was between two male classmates with which they were talking in a fashion that he perceived to be flirtatious. He instantly felt threatened by this possible competition. However, the seat across the table was still vacant, and he moved quickly to take that chair. She was dressed in a floral-designed short skirt and a revealing V-neck, white blouse. Her long blond hair was flowing around her head and curling gently over her shoulders. They greeted each other interrupting her conversations with the other two males. He automatically said, “You look absolutely fabulous.” He purposely said it loud enough for the two fellows to hear, “I really enjoyed our lunch today and getting know more about each other.” She responded with a lovely smile, “Me too, Chad charmant. I am glad that we are free to talk in other than French on the weekends.” She then introduced him to the two fellows, Mark and Henry, that Chad only knew by site. Mark recognized Chad’s ploy, and asked Chad if he would like to switch seats. Chad accepted the offer. Chad and Carina effectively isolated themselves from the others in their conversation during dinner. They explored different aspects of what a synergistic venture would encompass. Again, she pulled out a small pad and made some notes. When desert was being served, she laid the pad on the, and he noted a heart drawn at the bottom. After dinner, the two were side-by-side as they weaved through the evening’s social activities. They would be together, when possible, for the remainder of their time at the Institute. Chad had marked his territory as had Carina with the women in the class.

The rules at the Institute were quite strict as to after-hour activities between classmates during the week. Hence, for the next two weekends, Chad and Carina would leave the Institute to be together on La Vie. Appropriately, Chad had called me during the second week to discuss his desire to have access to La Vie on the weekends, with or without Sara and I being on board. He was clearly excited about Carina both personally and professionally. I had to rethink my position on the exclusivity of his studies. With Carina it seemed that he was both doing well with his studies while advancing his career in a before unseen fashion. However, I asked him about Bridgett given his description of their time together. “Son, what should I do if Bridgett shows up at some time looking for you. She does seem to be quite aggressive and interested in you.” “Yeah Dad, I understand. Simply tell her that I am not available for the rest of the voyage.” I interrupted him, “That is your job. I will tell her that I will let you know that she called. And then you handle.” “Yes, you are right Dad.” Chad paused, “That was an amazing weekend with those two, but I see long-term possibilities with Carina and not with Bridgett.” Then he made an amazing statement, “I want what I do, and how I live … and who I live with, to be about substance and not flash. Having been with those two over the weekend made that point quite clear to me.” I responded, “Wow! This trip has already been successful. More good stuff to come, my son.” Before we hung up, I told him that our traveling plans were not locked in for the next several weeks, but he was welcome to bring Carina on board if we are there. I couldn’t wait to tell Sara about the conversation.

For the remaining weeks at the Institute, Chad was totally immersed in the program during the day. In the evenings he and Carina were coming closer and closer together, both personally and professionally. During the 3rd weekend, Sara and I got to meet Carina on board La Vie. We were both highly impressed with her individually, and how she and Chad talked about moving forward with a venture. It was during that weekend that the four of us talked about Carina joining Chad and me in several weeks as we progressed along the voyage. That Sunday evening when Chad and Carina were leaving to return to the Institute, Sara took Carina in her arms for an intense hug. Sara would be gone to return to the States before Carina would return to La Vie at the end of the course.

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